At the beginning of the 20th century, many men, women, and children travelled across Europe and beyond in search of work and better living conditions. In France, as in other countries, steerage class was the lowest level of travel, often crowded and with little comfort. The clothing worn by steerage passengers in the 1900s reflected poverty, practicality, and the need for durable garments that could withstand long journeys.
Outfits were not chosen for style but for survival, and the materials were often second-hand, plain, and heavily used. Understanding the clothing of this time gives a clearer picture of the daily struggles of working-class travelers in France.
General Clothing Style of Steerage Passengers
The steerage passengers came mostly from working and rural backgrounds. Their clothing was simple, heavy, and practical. Most of them owned only a few garments, and these were worn repeatedly throughout the journey. Fabrics were coarse and strong, such as wool, linen, and cotton. Clothing showed signs of patching and mending, as items were kept for many years. Colours were usually dark, including black, brown, grey, and navy, because darker shades hid dirt more easily and were considered suitable for travel.
1. Men’s Clothing in Steerage
Men in steerage usually wore basic shirts made of cotton or linen, often with long sleeves to provide both warmth and protection. Over the shirt, a wool jacket or vest was common, though many men did not own full suits. Trousers were sturdy and practical, made from wool or heavy cotton. Most trousers were straight cut, without decoration, and worn with suspenders rather than belts, as suspenders were more common at the time.
Footwear for men was limited. Many wore heavy boots or simple leather shoes, often worn down and patched. Hats were also a key part of men’s clothing. Flat caps, bowler hats, or wide-brimmed felt hats were typical, serving to protect from sun and cold. Scarves or kerchiefs were sometimes added for warmth during the sea journey.
2. Women’s Clothing in Steerage
Women in steerage wore layered clothing that reflected both modesty and practicality. A typical outfit included a long cotton or wool dress that reached the ankles. The dresses were plain, usually dark or muted in colour, with high necklines and long sleeves. Aprons were very common because they protected the dress underneath from dirt and wear. Many women travelled with one or two aprons and washed them as often as possible during the journey.
Over their dresses, women often wore shawls or woollen wraps to keep warm. Some had simple jackets or bodices, though these were often second-hand or homemade. Corsets were less common in steerage, as most working-class women prioritised comfort and practicality over strict fashion. On their heads, many women wore kerchiefs, bonnets, or simple cloth coverings to protect their hair and to keep clean in crowded spaces. Footwear was limited to plain leather boots or shoes, often handed down or heavily worn.
3. Children’s Clothing in Steerage
Children’s clothing in steerage was usually a smaller version of adult dress, as few families could afford specialised clothing for young ones. Boys often wore short trousers with shirts and sometimes small jackets or caps. Girls wore dresses similar to their mothers, with pinafores or aprons to protect the fabric. Many children travelled barefoot, especially if the family came from rural parts of France, though some had simple leather shoes. Clothing for children was often patched many times and passed down between siblings.
Practical Needs Over Fashion
In steerage, clothing was chosen with survival in mind rather than appearance. Since conditions in steerage were harsh, with poor ventilation and crowded sleeping areas, clothes needed to last through long travel. Fabrics were heavy and not easily washed, which meant many passengers wore the same garments throughout the journey. Luggage space was small, so travellers carried only essential items, usually their strongest set of clothes and perhaps one spare outfit. Laundry during travel was difficult, so aprons, shawls, and scarves were used to protect clothing as much as possible.
Social Differences Reflected in Clothing
The clothes worn by steerage passengers showed a clear difference between them and those travelling in higher classes. In first and second class, wealthier passengers wore finer fabrics such as silk and well-tailored suits or gowns. Steerage passengers, however, dressed in coarse materials and reused clothing. This visible difference marked the social divide on board ships and was a reminder of the poverty many emigrants were trying to escape. Clothing in steerage represented the struggles of the working class at the turn of the century.
Influence of French Rural Fashion
Many French steerage passengers came from rural areas, bringing with them elements of regional clothing. In certain parts of France, wooden clogs or sabots were still worn, though most emigrants switched to leather shoes for long travel. Woollen shawls and headscarves reflected the rural tradition of modesty and practicality. While city fashions in Paris and other urban centres were changing rapidly in the 1900s, steerage passengers continued to wear older, traditional styles that lasted longer and cost less.
Conclusion
The clothing worn in steerage in France in the 1900s was plain, strong, and suited for survival. Men wore simple shirts, trousers, jackets, and hats, while women dressed in long skirts, aprons, shawls, and head coverings. Children wore smaller versions of adult clothing, often patched and reused.
Dark colors, coarse fabrics, and practical designs were the rule, reflecting the limited means of those who travelled in the lowest class. These clothes were not a matter of choice but of necessity, shaped by poverty and the harsh conditions of steerage travel. Looking back at what was worn helps to understand not only fashion history but also the social and economic realities of working-class life in early 20th century France.
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